A Lesson to Walk Your Own Pace: Days 2–5 on the Camino de Santiago
These first five days tested me—physically and mentally—but helped me grow spiritually.
I have been on one heck of a fearless journey on the Camino de Santiago in Spain. Earlier this week, I wrote to you about the start of my camino in Leon, Spain and a recap of my first day. The entire Camino will take me 14 days to complete, walking over 311 KM (roughly 200 miles) from Leon to Santiago de Compostela.
In previous posts, I outlined why I was doing this now and gave you some sense of why I started the Camino in Leon.
As I reflect on my second through fifth days on the Camino de Santiago, a word comes to mind: humbling. Not in a self-deprecating way, but in a soul-shaping way. These days tested me—physically and mentally. My feet blistered, my knees ached, my pace slowed. But with each challenge came a deepening clarity: the Camino isn’t about powering through—it’s about learning to walk your own pace and receive grace along the way.
Each day I pray a rosary, walk with intention, and dedicate the day to one of the twelve Apostles. In doing so, my Camino becomes more than a hike; it becomes a daily pilgrimage of spirit and purpose.
Below is a recap of Days 2 through 5 on the Camino, trying to bring together the experience as best as I possibly can.
DAY 2: SAN MARTÍN DEL CAMINO TO ASTORGA Tuesday, May 20
Started the day in San Martín de Camino. While I am praying a rosary each day along my long walks -- and dedicating each day to a different Apostle of Jesus -- I am also inspired by some of the namesakes along the way.
St. Martin was a former Roman soldier turned Bishop of Tours. He was known for his humility. St. Martin thought he had one direction for his life -- service in the military of the Roman Empire; it turned out he had a much higher purpose, serving the Church as Bishop of Tours. A fitting reminder of transformation and purpose — and that when we lean into that, any one of us might find another way forward in our own lives.
However, the Apostle I dedicated today to was John—the beloved apostle—known for his closeness to Jesus and deep faith.
My day 2 started with breakfast at my hostel in St. Martin, meeting fellow pilgrims including a man from Colorado who very recently served on the city council of Colorado Springs, a place I will be later this year for a conference.
At 7:17 AM, I began my walk back on the camino, meeting people from everywhere it seems; I met some memorable fellow pilgrims from Ireland, Vero Beach (FL), and even a remarkable woman from Missouri, who has lived in St. Croix for the past 50 years, recently retired, and is finishing her final leg of the Camino; she also has a son that lives in West Palm Beach. Small world.
The conversations, like the path, were full of surprises.
Speaking of surprises: I walked across a 5th-century Roman bridge in Hospital de Órbigo and paused at peaceful churches and shady benches as I made my way toward Astorga. Today's path was mostly flat with some hills along the way.
After nearly 19 miles and 37,000 steps, I arrived in Astorga.
A simple albergue (aka hostel) welcomed me and only charged me 7 Euros for a bed in a 4-person bunk; there I met two young women from Italy and a man from Spain; later I met another pilgrim from San Francisco.
This day was filled with warm conversations, a visit to the amazing cathedral of Astorga (and saw a palace designed by Gaudi right next door), a much-needed massage, and dinner in the plaza as the sun dipped behind the hills.
As my Camino ended on day 2, the body was beginning to feel it. One knee and one shoulder were a bit sore, my feet a bit worn—but my spirit full.
And what left me in AWE at the end of the day was the visit to the cathedral in Astorga. Imagine taking 37k + steps all day and then taking another 5k steps to walk across town to visit the cathedral and walk through it? I'm glad I did. Also: getting ice cream right before that allowed me to just sit in front of the cathedral for 10 minutes and admire the beauty that all these pilgrims over the past millennia have inspired.
Day 2 totals:
📍 Astorga
👣 37,105 steps*
📏 18.83 miles
*does not count the additional 5k steps I took around Astorga
DAY 3: ASTORGA TO FONCEBADÓN Wednesday, May 21
On this day, I dedicated the day to the Apostle Thomas—often remembered as the doubter, but also a man of deep conviction and courage.
I woke at 6:05am in beautiful Astorga filled with doubts—just like Thomas. One knee sore, one shoulder aching, and a blister forming on the bottom of my left foot.
I truly wasn’t sure how I’d get through the day. Every movement felt heavier, every plan uncertain. Still, I got up, had breakfast, and stepped back onto the Camino at 7:24am.
I quickly realized I was moving dramatically slower than the previous two days—so slow, in fact, that everyone I saw was passing me.
But I continued. I focused on finding my pace—the pace of my Camino. These aches and blisters became a lesson: sometimes speed is not the answer on our journey. We may feel pressure to match others or stick to a plan, but often, we need to slow down and follow the path that makes sense for us—not the one we imagined, but the one unfolding step by step.
The day unfolded with a mix of pain and grace. In Murias de Rechivaldo, I met Leyla from Israel (originally from California). In El Ganso, I had lunch beside a kind couple from Taiwan who later gave me a banana to thank me for helping them understand the menu. Small kindnesses, deeply felt.
As the steps added up—10k, 15k, 30k steps—I pressed on, even as soreness persisted. I met Emmy, a student from Tennessee, and later a man from Brazil who recognized my Boca Juniors shirt (from the Argentina soccer club). I’ve come to realize how many connections I can make simply because I’ve been to so many places and have common things to talk about with people from there. Travel builds bridges. Familiarity builds connection.
By 2:18pm, I reached Rabanal del Camino. But the day wasn’t over yet. While I tore my Achilles tendon last August, my feet have never felt this sore. Every chance I get, I take the shoes off while feeling the feet throb. And, at day’s end, we all walk around with sandals (not flip flops).
The final two hours were uphill—an unrelenting path of elevation—and I didn’t see a single other pilgrim during that entire time. I walked completely alone, but it became a time of deep reflection as I looked at the stunning mountain scenery around me.
I thought about the pace of my path, the persistence required to reach what’s next—not relying solely on myself, but trusting in a deeper guidance. I felt the presence of St. James and all the Apostles, reminding me that the most important journey is The Way of the Cross.
On this day, I had to endure suffering—not like Jesus did—but enough to reflect, and to be grateful. Grateful for the silence, the solitude, and the slowness. Grateful for the strength that comes only when we lean into faith.
At 4:44pm, I arrived in Foncebadón and there was the cross awaiting my arrival, reminding me I may be suffering but my level is nothing compared to His.
I checked into a private room. I stretched, showered, ate, tended to a blister, and ended the day in prayer—for healing, and for the strength to keep walking.
Thomas reminded me that faith and doubt often walk together. And on this day, I did both.
And somehow I completed 43k + steps, 21.27 miles, and reached an elevation of over 4,600 feet, to get to where I wanted to be on Wednesday, in Foncebadon, where I stayed the night in a private room in beautiful hostel, overlooking the mountains here in Spain, just like the one I had climbed on this day.
Day 3 totals:
📍 Foncebadón
👣 43,604 steps
📏 21.27 miles
⬆️ 4,686 ft elevation
DAY 4: FONCEBADÓN TO PONFERRADA Thursday, May 22
Thursday was dedicated to the Apostle Andrew, the brother of Peter—a faithful and steady presence, often working quietly behind the scenes. As I walked, I carried in my heart intentions for my own brothers, lifting them up in prayer, and also thinking of the painful conflicts between “brother nations” like Russia and Ukraine, Israel and Gaza; India and Pakistan. My hope: healing, reconciliation, peace.
The day began slowly but with a bit more strength—a 6:30am wake-up, and I felt more energized than on Day 3. After breakfast at 8:00am, I picked up some hiking sticks to anticipate the ups and downs of the mountains ahead. I was back on the Camino at 9:08am, finding a steadier rhythm as I set off.
I met a woman from New Zealand early on, another reminder of the Camino’s beautiful mix of people and stories.
At 9:43am, I reached a major milestone: the highest elevation point on the Camino—1,505 meters (4,937 feet). I paused for a photo and a brief rest, reconnecting with Layla from Israel and meeting Luke from Tennessee (he took my photo -- thanks!)
But from that high point, the Camino changed. The path descended steeply through a rocky mountain trail, and despite my earlier energy, I slowed down significantly. The terrain was rough, uneven, and demanding. With sore knees already, I took every step carefully—not wanting to risk injury, especially this early in the journey. Sometimes the descent is more difficult than the climb, and this one demanded caution and patience. (Photo below was looking back up at one of the rocky paths I had just descended).
By 12:48pm, I reached Acebo de San Miguel and stopped for lunch. The key at most of these places in Spain is to ask for the daily menu and three courses (plus a drink) are delivered somewhere between 13 and 18 euros, depending on where you are. This one filled me up and gave me the energy to continue. Or so I thought!
Later came Riego de Ambrós, followed by Molinaseca, where I crossed the pilgrim's bridge and then took a rest in a chair in the town center—tired, but steady.
A few times today I saw Emmy from Tennessee again and again. As I contemplated whether I should continue on from Molinesca, she and her group were just leaving there when I arrived and they gave me the encouragement I needed to follow in their footsteps about twenty minutes later.
At 6:50pm, I entered Ponferrada, and by 7:30pm, I checked into my hostel (private room for about 45 euros) getting into my room at 8:00pm. As part of my daily rhythm, I stretched—something I do both at the beginning and end of each day—then showered and took a short rest.
Completely exhausted, I nearly stayed in for the night. But knowing one must eat to stay energized, I made myself walk one block for dinner, feeling the pain of every step, blisters and all. If I can barely walk a block, how the heck am I going to continue this Camino the next day?
At 9:30pm, I sat down with food, wine, and water—a simple, nourishing end to a long day. By 10:15pm, I returned to my room, and by 11:00pm, I was passed out asleep.
In the final moments before falling asleep, I assured myself that the next day would be a rest day. I didn’t want to take another step. My body ached, new blisters were forming, and I went to bed unsure of how much more of the Camino I could possibly continue.
The path is beautiful—but also deeply humbling.
I shed a tear thinking my Camino may be over. I could not see a possibility where I could reasonably stay on pace to make it to Santiago de Compestala.
Day 4 totals:
📍 Ponferrada
👣 31,997 steps
📏 15.04 miles
⬆️ 4,939 ft elevation
DAY 5: PONFERRADA TO CACABELOS Friday, May 23
Friday was dedicated to the Apostle Philip—a disciple who sought understanding and was eager to bring others to Jesus. I carried his spirit of curiosity and commitment with me as I stepped into a new day.
And to my surprise—I felt renewed.
The night before, I was discouraged: a new blister had begun forming on my right foot, in addition to the painful one already on my left since Day 3. Even more surprisingly, blisters had started forming on one finger of each hand, likely from the poles I had only just started using the day prior.
But when I woke up—the blisters on my hands had disappeared, and the one on my right foot had diminished. It felt like a small miracle. Every morning on the Camino has felt miraculous—not because the pain vanishes, but because something inside me is renewed, just enough to keep going. It's hard to explain or even to believe myself.
I slept in on this day (until 8:30am) but when I awoke, I decided it would not be a rest day. I would at least make some progress, even if it wasn't all the way to the final destination I originally had in mind.
Before hitting the trail, I visited Castillo Viejo—a medieval fortress in Ponferrada granted to the Knights Templar in the early 1200s to protect pilgrims on their way to Santiago. Standing there, I felt like a small part of a centuries-old story—of faith, pilgrimage, and divine protection. I must continue.
At 11:10am, I checked out of my hotel and got back on the Camino. I walked non-stop for 1 hour and 40 minutes to the town of Camponaraya—originally thinking this could be my only destination for the day. I sat for a coffee and sandwich, and after a 25-minute break, I felt strong enough to continue.
About 90 minutes later, at 2:45pm, I arrived in Cacabelos—a town that felt just right in size and spirit. It was the perfect place to stop, and the perfect amount of progress for the day. Not only did I have enough energy left, but also enough time to do a full set of laundry, refreshing my clothes and relaxing in the early evening.
I had a private room with a private bathroom at a local hostel for 45 euros, and enjoyed a nice dinner at the hostel’s restaurant—a simple but satisfying way to nourish both body and soul.
I got to bed early, with hope and intention of restarting my early mornings, as I had done in the first few days of my Camino.
I thought of Philip, who once said to Jesus, “Lord, show us the Father, and that will be enough for us. And I reflected on Jesus’ response: “Have I been with you so long, and you still do not know me, Philip? Whoever has seen me has seen the Father.”(John 14:8–9)
That exchange is a reminder that what we seek—meaning, presence, assurance—might already be with us. Just as Jesus was with Philip, God is already walking this path with me, whether I recognize it or not.
Today wasn’t about distance. It was about direction. And it reminded me once again: the Camino isn’t about conquering miles—it’s about responding to grace, step by step.
Thank you for following the journey.
Day 5 totals:
📍 Cacabelos
👣 22,918 steps
📏 11.34 miles
****
I will continue to keep you posted on my experience on the Camino de Santiago. I am grateful to have had many amazing experiences in my life. This is one of the most grueling and challenging, but also one of the most incredible things I have ever done or experienced. In some ways I feel like all my travels have led me here to meet and connect with people from so many places I have already been, able to meet them right here on the path — the way — to Santiago. We are all pilgrims … on the way.
I smell Fearless Journeys the book coming out soon 😉
Incredible journey that you’re on! I’m enjoying following along here. Keep it going, my friend!